Ruth Girmay: Ethiopian designer's leather bags are more than a fashion statement

By Pauline Odhiambo

Artists and designers have drawn inspiration from nature for centuries, tapping into its beauty, diversity, and complexity to create works that resonate with audiences.

Ethiopian designer Ruth Girmay picked the Nile perch, a fish species native to Africa, as her muse, medium and message for the Africa Talent Leather Design Showcase 2024.

Her "Overfishing Bag", carved out of sustainable leather and meant to raise awareness about the existential threat to the Nile perch, fetched her the title of Most Commendable Designer at the Real Leather. Stay Different (RLSD) event in Addis Ababa from November 8 to 10.

In keeping with the showcase theme – "Redefining Fashion's Environmental Footprint" — Girmay's creation is as much about conservation as it is a reflection of the African leather industry's potential and the role of sustainable design in reshaping fashion.

"The 'O' shape of the handbag handle is carved to resemble the eye of the (Nile perch) fish, while the pleated body is similar to the spiny dorsal and tail fins," explains Girmay in a video posted on Instagram by RLSD.

Girmay's challenge was to use the aesthetics of design to drive home the message about overfishing being one of the primary factors that have caused the Nile perch population in African waters to plummet.

In conservation parlance, overfishing is the depletion of a fish species from a body of water faster than the natural replenishment rate.

The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO), which monitors over 500 marine species worldwide, estimates that almost 90% of global marine fish stocks are either overfished or fully exploited.

Purposeful fashion

Girmay's entire collection advocates the protection of various ecosystems while preserving the livelihoods of the communities that depend on them.

Sustainable leather, her material of choice, is a byproduct of farms that use environmentally friendly practices rather than originating in commercial factories that often use unsafe chemicals and contribute to global waste.

Producers of sustainable leather strive to have as little impact on the environment as possible by adopting scientific farming methods.

Unlike in intensive farming, the goal is to also create ethical work environments for those employed in the leather industry.

"By adding value to our leather products, we can create more income, empower generations, and ensure that Africa’s leather industry thrives globally," the executive director of Africa Leather and Leather Products Institute, Nicholas Mudungwe, said at the awards ceremony.

Cradle of creativity

Besides Girmay, several African designers were recognised at the event for excellence across categories such as apparel, accessories, and footwear.

The People's Choice Award allowed the public to vote for their favourite design.

Uganda's Eddie Louis won the Apparel Award for his "Contemporary Leather Armour" collection, inspired by historical patterns and avant-garde aesthetics symbolising protection and resilience.

The Footwear Award was conferred on Zimbabwean designer Nompumelelo Marilyn Samambgwa for her "Amaluba" collection, featuring floral leather elements as a tribute to nature alongside intricate 3D designs.

Kenya's Stephen Maosa took home the People's Choice Award for his "Transformable Travel Bag", crafted from 75% Kenyan leather and 25% upcycled denim. The bag, designed for the modern traveller, seeks to depict sustainability and versatility.

Girmay added the Accessories Award to her mantle for the "Overfishing Bag". For the 2023 event, she had designed the award-winning "Diversity Bag", inspired by the zebra as an emblem of beauty, equality and strength.

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