Tobong'u Lore: Journey into Kenya's Turkana county soul

By Millicent Akeyo

Turkana, the largest among Kenya's 47 counties with a combined land and water span of 77,597.8 sq km, wears many hats.

In 1984, a team led by the Kenyan paleoanthropologist and conservationist Richard Leakey ventured into the county's Nariokotome region and unearthed what would become his most celebrated find – the "Turkana Boy", a 1.6-million-year-old skeleton of a young male Homo erectus.

Scientific investigations into the life and times of the Turkana Boy have since shed new light on the Turkana Basin as the epicentre of human evolution.

Beyond its fascinating antecedents, Turkana is a many-splendoured natural and cultural paradise marked by rugged terrain, arid desert landscape, and the shimmering Lake Turkana, known as the "Jade Sea".

The name "Turkana" refers to the pastoral community residing in the arid and semi-arid rangelands of northwestern Kenya.

This community plays host to one of Kenya's most popular cultural festivals, Tobong'u Lore, which translates into "coming together of people" in the local Turkana language.

For those looking to explore Kenya beyond the typical tourist spots, Tobong'u Lore offers a rare glimpse into the heart of Turkana, a community rich in history, culture, and warmth.

Leah Audan Lokaala, an executive committee member of Turkana County, sees Tobong'u Lore not only as the cultural centrepiece of her native place but also a call to the world to explore the region.

"We say 'come back home' to everyone in the world because we believe – and which science has proven – that we are the origin of humankind," Leah tells TRT Afrika.

Journey of discovery

Every year, tourists from across the world land at Turkana County to be part of the pageantry of indigenous cultures that takes them on a whirligig of history, tradition and hospitality.

The 2024 fete, held over four days from October 23 in the town of Lodwar, was the eighth edition since its inception in 2008.

President William Ruto was among the guests at the event, featuring unique sideshows such as an exhibition on insect farming as an unconventional yet feasible solution to climate change-induced food insecurity.

Lusema Machanja, a Kakuma-based Congolese refugee and entrepreneur, and his team showcased their success in breeding black soldier flies and crickets for animal feed and human consumption.

The scale of this year's Tobong'u Lore and the crowds it drew reinforced the belief that the festival can grow even bigger.

"We want to welcome everyone," says Leah. "It isn't hard for us to welcome our brothers and sisters, the Pokots, the Nyangatom from Ethiopia, and those from South Sudan. That is why when you look at how Tobong'u Lore was organised this time, it was very special."

Deep-rooted traditions

The traditional Turkana dance, known as Edonga in the local dialect, is among the prime attractions of the event.

The dance is performed in groups with energetic moves and high-jumping skills to the accompaniment of drumbeats and chants.

The dance functions as both entertainment and a historical narrative, transmitted through generations and embodying aspects such as warrior traditions, harvest celebrations, and rites of passage.

"It helps us remember where we came from, where our forefathers came from," Rose Lomanat, a native of Turkana County, tells TRT Afrika.

"The importance of this celebration is to remember how the Turkanas used to live. People have stopped dressing like the Turkanas of yore, but when Tobong'u Lore arrives, we remember how we were, and we showcase our culture before the non-Turkanas."

Similar to the Maasai and Samburu, the Turkana people wear colourful clothing and regalia. The outfits are often made from animal skin and fitted with decorative beadwork, reflecting the region's cultural significance.

"It's called Ebelok in Turkana and the design is specifically used by women," explains Rosy Loshata.

Medium is the message

Apart from the cultural parade, this year's Tobong'u Lore celebration was about reinforcing the need for peace and security in Turkana and its neighbouring communities.

For many years now, the semi-arid northern regions of Kenya have been torn asunder by secessionist movements and intertribal warfare.

"We want to ensure that we have peace across and along our borders...These borders that we have that are making us fight, let these be just imaginary borders," says Rosy.

The event also featured discussions around climate change.

President Ruto took the opportunity to encourage dialogue about how the Turkana region could harness its natural resources to create sustainable solutions to the ravages of climate change.

"Turkana County has been badly affected by climate change. The department of climate change, which I also head, is trying to ensure that we have enough safe water for our animals, our vegetation, and also for human consumption," executive committee member Leah tells TRT Afrika.

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